Special Speakers for Audi cars. The first Special speakers, a new project, was made for the Audi cars.Im fucking returned!111!!11one!1! [archivio]
Audi A4, Audi A6 and Q5. The ESB team found immediately problem to match the unique Audi speaker's housing and the original amplifier with too low power to drive properly high quality speakers. The depth of the speaker housing was also very limited only a few centimetersthan it was impossible to adapt cone speakers with traditional voice coils and magnet group.
Then we developed new speakers in the 8" and 6. That speakers have low depth and can be adapted with special car's adapters in elegant aluminum Ferrari red color to match exactly the car spaces.
Also the connectors can match the original car wire's connectors, plug and play. With the 8" and 6. Also these two tweeters you will see used for other cars.
All the speakers included in the Car Kits have a different name because are supplied in the kit just integrated with the car adapters. The same for the other Audi speakers. Like for the front and rear speakers also the subwoofer was difficult to produce to replace the original with exactly the same problems the original space got in the top of the car boot is too limited.
Then the ESB team decided to produce an amplified subwoofer to be installed in the car trunk with its dedicated box. We used a special wood box, covered with synthetic leather, and with a watts amplifier inside the amplifier is produced from the Zapco company. Front Speaker System. Subwoofer Box. Rear Speaker System. Audi Special Speakers for Audi cars. The ESB team found immediately problem to match the unique Audi speaker's housing and the original amplifierThe installation is reasonably easy.
You should estimate about hours to do it, taking your time with the trim removal and laying out the Dynamat. If using other subs I'd be sure to check their minimum power requirement. The stock amp won't drive a sub with too high of a power requirement. Drop the back seats down. You'll need to do this for easy access and to get at the rear deck cover lip. Remove the Torx screw from the bottom of the stock sub, accessible from the trunk.
Remove the D-pillar covers. There is a small notch at the top front left side of pic of the cover that you can use to slip in a screwdriver. These must come off as there are 4 tabs that slot into the rear deck lid. Use a semi-short screwdriver as you don't want to damage the airbag charge that's inside the pillar. Gently pry up around the edge from one end to another paint can tool until it pops out.
Remove the speaker wire from the tweeter small speaker. Remove the 4 Torx screws holding the deck cover to the subwoofer housing. Remove the Torx screw under the left speaker grill.
This holds the deck cover on to a support bracket below. The deck cover is free to remove. There are four clips along the front, where the seat backs lean up against it. Lie down across folded down seats and push up against the front of the deck cover. There are two Torx screws down inside the front of the sub housing. Remove these and the housing should lift out. Here's one The new sub drops right in the hole from the old sub. There are 3 screw holes around the housing that line up perfectly with the mounting holes in the new JL sub.
Here are a few shots of the sub fit check, before pulling it out to apply the Dynamat. Shot 1 here You want to make sure that all holes are covered and the Dynamat has been stuck down securely.
If not, it won't be as effective. The lip of the JL sub is not a perfect seal, especially where the Dynamat terminates. To complete the new sub interface, use rings of rope caulk home depot to create a reliable and working seal.Meet the gorgeous Audi A7 Prestige Trim.
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The Audi is sweet, but there was one big problem. The bass from the speaker Bose surround sound system is pathetic. Completely unworthy of such an amazing car. Despite boasting a channel amplifier with over watts of total power, the bass is anemic. So I set out to remedy the situation. Subwoofer spec sheet. The vinyl covering on the box needed to be replaced, and this time I decided to use regular speaker carpet.
I watched a few YouTube videos to brush up on the technique. My only complaint is that it is pretty thin. It was advertised as having a latex backing, but it stretched a bit too easily as I was cutting, even with brand new utility blades.
Because I wanted to make my subwoofer box both easily removable and securely mounted, I attached two large eye screws to the back of the box. Along with some industrial strength velcro, I used the eye screws with a short cable lock to secure the box to the luggage hooks in the hatch of the car. I clamped the cable lock together using a rock climbing carabiner. This avoided having to screw directly into the sheet metal of the car.
Last, I looked around for a stylish, high-excursion speaker grill to cover the Alpine sub. At first I used a regular beehive-like grill. But, with the new Alpine amp, the sub actually hit against the grill as it oscillated.
I was tempted to leave the sub uncovered, but that seemed a bit too risky as I do haul around my bass gear and other cargo regularly. The grill looks great, but I wish it was metal instead of plastic. Overall, it seemed a great fit.
I also got the Remote Bass Level Control Knob so that I could adjust the overall output level of the amp from a more accessible location. Adding an amplifier and sub to the existing factory system meant that I need to tap the powered speaker level lines. Not only is the LC2I a crisp and clear active line out converter, but it had two other features that I thought were going to make my life easier more on that later : GTO Signal Sensing, which will turn the unit on when it detects signal from the speaker inputs, and a output remote turn on lead which can be used to switch on your amplifier.
One of my requirements for this installation was that the subwoofer itself had to be removable. I described my approach to secure, but easy to remove mounting above. The wiring needed a similar approach. To accomplish this, I built a small box to house a speaker terminal cupremote volume level for the amppower distribution block for the lightsand an overall master switch for the add-on system leaving the factory system in place.
I also added a small blue light that was laying around. Removing the sub just requires unplugging the speaker wire banana plugsunplugging the lighting wire leads for the lights inside the sub box and the one on this little boxturning off the master power switch, and then unhooking the carabiner on the cable lock wire. Installation Installing the audio components and wiring in the hatch of the A7 was pretty straightforward, but not without some issues.
Learn More. Dismiss Notice. Cookies Snack. Audi A3 Speaker Upgrade? Hi All, Picked up my Audi A3 at the weekend, first ever Audi i've owned and I'm in love with it, however I'm looking to upgrade the speakers as they just lack quality. The car doesn't have Bose Speakers, Can someone recommend me a decent set of speakers? I think the door ones would be the easiest to do first!
Many thanks! ApexApr 4, Glad to hear youre enjoying the car You don't even need to spend that much. GazwouldApr 9, Depends how much you like your car audio What max and rms are the Gladen? GazwouldApr 10, I was more seeking the info to see if they needed an amp or not.
Any other suggestions considering the invested interest! Check out their ranges on www. More alternative makes? You must log in or sign up to reply here.
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The constraints are still the same and music still sounds basically shyte compared to a home set up. Having said that you might be right considering speaker upgrades if the cost is sensible. NickfrogMar 11, What size are the component speakers? GazwouldMar 12, Does here help in anyway? Depends what you are expecting to achieve as to whether this is a worth while expenditure of your time and money. If you have a good home sound system i.
You can match them on outright volume, and you can get a lot of bass but low in quality.Led matrix code generator
But you are not going to achieve the clear stereo soundfield, the clarity, the timbre and imaging. The car is an inherently terrible place to try to establish good sound quality. Practically everything about a car is working against you. The doors where the speaker drivers are mounted are flexible, even in a good quality car like an audi. Push on the door panel and it will move. The same happens when you push a speaker hard, much of the energy will go into flexing the door panel rather than moving the speaker cone.
This is very undesirable. There is a reason expensive speakers have large, heavy, solid enclosures. The doors are also obviously not designed or braced properly to be a speaker, there are all sorts of bad, crazy vibrations, standing waves and pressure variances inside the door when speakers are running. This is not to mention the lack of clean power supply from a car, the vibrations from poorly fitting door panels, the lack of anywhere good to place the speakers in a proper stereo configuration, the resonance from the car's body, the vibration from the engine and road, the interference from all the other electronics in the car.
So if you have an appreciation for all of the above, then the cheapest and simplest options is to not even try, because achieving anything great will be extremely expensive and difficult.
If all you want is something "pretty decent" that will go loud and not distort, then you can reasonably expect to achieve that by just upgrading the car amplifier, throw in some decent after market speakers and add a bunch more anti vibration and sound insulating material to the door panels. A4A4paul wev and Nickfrog like this. That's what I was trying to say but I don't know that many words. NickfrogMar 12, Kakatkpaul wev and kmanmx like this. It'll be easy to add a amplifier as the battery is under the boot.
Cheap Upgrade to your B5 Bose Stereo!!
None of the non Bose wiring can be used. Only the rear speakers are amped and sub on the non Bose system, whereas all the Bose speakers are amped.Best turntable under 2000
All the speakers have to be swapped and the sub. It's quite a lot of work for a slight improvement in sound quality as the Bose system in the 8L is probably the worst Bose system on the market.
Far better to leave everything stock and install a stealth sub. This will give you a far better result for a lot less work. AndyMacOct 12, Yes sub amp is inside the Bose sub tupperware enclosure. There is a bracket that you need to mount the Bose cabin amp inside the drivers side cubbyhole, it sits low down just behind the rear lights. The Bose sub has 2 x 4" speakers in it, here's the 2 side by side:.
I think its insulting that the stereos sound so bad considing the 'premium' you pay, especially for the Bose option. I am going to compare a few cars I've owned in terms of the stereo. Once upon a time I a VW bora with the Gamma stereo and that was surprising good for what it was. I sold it and got an A3 and the stereo in that was totally insulting especially considering it had the sub etc which the Bora didnt have.
It was truely awful. So I went all out and got infinity speakers and allpine amps and an Andy mac sub and its probably the best stereo set up I've had, still using the Concert stereo. You can improve them by snipping the 'BOSE' wire at the back of the stero to loose the rediculous EQ curve on it which helps a lot. However I drive everyday a Polo tdi, and I have the std VW speakers in it and it sounds way better than the S4 bose nonsense S4 is an Avant but the Saloon is no better, Ive had one of those too.
So even with the bose wire snipped its still flippin insulting!!
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